FROM RACE CAR DRIVING TO MAKING WINE—CAN THIS BE REAL?
LePlan Viognier 2007 $24.95 $270/case of 12
Dirk Vermeersch who hails from the lovely city Antwerp, raced cars professionally and successfully for 16 years, sold organic produce before the word was in most dictionaries, gave it all up for a move to the southern Rhone in the late 1990s. There, he bought old vineyards which were seriously in need of sustainable farming, and released his first wines in 2001. He and wife Helene tend the vines, while their daughter Ann makes the wines. A great story—full of the unpredictable and the highly unlikely. But we do not drink stories, we drink wine. If the wines were not excellent, the story would be a mere curiosity. Mary introduced me to the Le Plan--the name refers to the sub-region in which the vineyards are located. I was immediately impressed by their fine fruit and refreshing acidity—essential for wines from warm climates. I just tasted the recently released Viognier from the Rhone's superb 2007 vintage. Viognier is a very tricky grape which is best known as the source of the Northern Rhone’s most expensive white wines—those from Condrieu. A good Condrieu will set you back between $60 and $90 a bottle---about the price of a premier cru White Burgundy. So what makes Viognier such an exciting but difficult varietal? First the good part: The Aroma of Viognier is
unlike that of any other grape: Explosively floral with overtones of vanilla, white peach, almond extract and white pepper.
And the problem?
Viognier’s are all too often very high in alcohol and flabby, causing palate fatigue after 1 glass. But not always. I am delighted to report that Dirk and Ann Vermeersch have succeeded admirably in capturing the seductive, exotic aromatics of Viognier, the lovely, fresh, juicy white peach flavors inherent to the grape with a zesty citrus-accented acidity which keeps the wine alive and refreshing. The 14 percent alcohol is hardly noticeable.
The Le Plan Viognier is delicious enough to drink as a full bodied aperitif. You will enjoy it with grilled fish, raw bar and Salmon. The flavors and texture of the wine make it fine match for sauces based on herbs and olive oil— 100% organic, of course.
Bob Millman
1 bottle minimum - Offer closes by Tuesday - First come, First Served
Please reply with desired amounts and Mary will help you to quickly
set up an account if that has yet to be done.
ThoreauWineSociety.com
Dear Friends,
Every time I encounter a Burgundy I haven’t tasted before I experience both anxiety and excitement.Why? Because there is nothing more disappointing than a thin, undernourished red Burgundy. The ratio of hits to misses with Burgundies favors Napa Valley reds, Aussie Shiraz, southern Rhones. Burgundy is so mercurial and unpredictable. Why do we all bother? Because when you encounter a good red Burgundy it as if the gods are smiling. Ask any serious wine person about this. Red Burgundy is the Holy Grail of wine: when you experience a good one you are tasting a little bit of heaven. You know where this is going by now: I had a mini-religious experience recently courtesy of a $30 red Burgundy. Not $300, $30! And the name of this vinous miracle? 2005 Ladoix from Domaine Chevalier.
Ladoix is not exactly a household name. It is a modest village on “the wrong side” of the tracks just the other side of the Hill of Corton. This is the transitional region between the northern vineyards of the Cote de Beaune and the southern vineyards of the Cote de Nuits.
What Ladoix lacks in fame it makes up for in the striving for excellence: 3 fines estates are firmly situated in Ladoix, none better than that of Claude Chevalier who has transformed his father’s excellent domaine into a superlative one. The entire classification system in Burgundy prices wines by the status of their geographical source—a kind of caste system alien to the new world where wines are priced and evaluated by the reputation of the grower, not the pedigree of the vineyard.
The good news for savvy consumers is that there are a number of wonderful Burgundies which are under-priced relative to their quality because of the hierarchy of the appellation system.
Tasted on its own merits, Chevalier’s 2005 Ladoix would kick the butts of dozens of red Burgundies and new world Pinots retailing for twice the price. The first thing you notice is the breathtaking bouquet: Asian spices, leather, sweet young tobacco leaves and lush dark cherries. It broadcasts Burgundy. It is this kind of aroma that sends Burgundy nuts into another state of consciousness. Fortunately the taste lives up to the superb bouquet with a wonderful silky texture, waves of dark fruit flavors ands lip smacking acidity to keep everything fresh and alive. Sniffed and tasted 24 hours after being opened, the Ladoix had lost nothing of its beauty. Don’t bother to order a mere 3 bottles. Buy a case if you can afford to and drink a bottle every 2-3 months.
Chevalier Pere et Fils Ladoix 2005
$30 per bottle - 1 bottle minimum
Offer closes by Friday
First come, First Served
Please reply with desired amounts and Mary will help you to quickly
set up an account if that has yet to be done.
Bob Millman
ThoreauWineSociety.com
Dear Readers,
If you love wine (which you should) I would highly recommend grabbing a copy of Kermit Lynch’s fabulous book, ‘Adventures on the Wine Route’ – the decades-old story of the importer’s comb through France in search of revelatory winemakers. Monsieur Lynch was recently in town for tasting. In my copy, he signed: “To Mary, The best thing I’ve witnessed tonight. Here’s to you.” Clearly, Kermit’s articulate taste in women corresponds to that of his in wine, as he is responsible for bringing some of France’s most beloved estates to the American market, wines that speak of where they are from in their haunting subtle beauty.
Among the visionary Lynch portfolio, is the Domaine Poujol in the Languedoc – an estate that had been dysfunctional (though endowed with lovely vineyard sites), until 1995 when Robert and Kim Cripps revived it. “We've watched with more than passing interest as the disheveled vineyards they purchased have slowly been converted to organic farming, and through a sheer labor of love have begun to resemble something one more commonly finds at a great baronial estate. There are no barons at Poujol, just an inspirational couple with great plans for the future.”
Some years ago winemaker Robert Kripps and his lovely New York agent passed by Kris’ shack on 14th street to greet and taste with us, (the voyage up to apartment included a 45-minute elevator malfunction and 2 firemen). I immediately appreciated Robert’s humility and the honesty of his wines – this 2005 Podio Alto – a Syrah, Grenache,
Mourvedre blend of authenticity – a purity of aroma and a structure that was regal, but not extracted. It deserved my highest marks, which generally is not 90 whatever points but a check plus system from school days. I’ve regretted not having before sent an offer on this beautifully southern-French, Languedocian gem which can take at least
ten years of ageing, but is drinking very well now. The grapes are handpicked from hillside vineyards that yield vivid fruit in sparse quantity, fermented by local indigenous yeast, and matured in large oak foudres.
The Maison de la Region Languedoc-Roussillon just held a trade tasting of the most highly rated wines of the Languedoc. (How they afford a gleaming glass front in midtown, beats me). I went through the room feeling like too many wines were clunky chunky modern things that I couldn’t quite relate to. Towards the end of the tasting, I ran into a wine that finally had a sense of place – it had a charm of its own – it tasted like the south of France, like the sun, the farm, the earth, the fruit – a purity that felt quite rare for that particular tasting – eh voila, I rediscovered the Poujol, Podio Alto 2005 –
This is a beautiful effort and a steal for the price. Quite difficult to find in the US retail market (as far as I can see).
$24.99 – no minimum for purchase. (This is not the cuvee Proteus which they sell for $15).
or $280 / case
Please reply with desired amounts and I will send you account set-up info if I have not already done so.
Slainte,
Mary Taylor
ThoreauWineSociety.com
“But then of course Cassis tastes better in Cassis! Debussy sounds better after a walk through the foggy, puddle streets of late-night Paris.” – Kermit
$19 GERMAN PINOT NOIR EMBARRASES IT'S FRENCH AND AMERICAN COUNTERPARTS
I was at a tasting recently featuring mostly German Rieslings with a few relevant interlopers. One of the most interesting and enjoyable of these non-Rieslings was a lovely estate Pinot Noir from the Becker winery in the Pfalz region of Germany. The Becker estate is unique in that it owns vineyards in Alsace and Germany but makes all its wines at its estate in the town of Schweigen which is a bike ride away from Strasbourg. The wines are imported by Rudi Wiest whose portfolio of German producers is arguably the most distinguished group of German wines brought to America. Becker may very well be the finest producer of Pinot Noir in Germany and is so recognized by his peers. His top single vineyard Pinots command Burgundian prices and easily sell out.
Fortunately for us, young and very smart Frederick Wilhelm Becker has decided to bottle an estate Pinot which retails for under $20. Frankly most inexpensive Pinots are not worth the bottles they are put in. What an unexpected joy then to recommend a $19 Pinot Noir that is as delicious as it is affordable. The wine reminded me of a Cru Beaujolais--Fleurie in particular-but with the unmistakable aromatics and texture of good French Pinot.
The 2007 estate pinot noir is a superb value with lovely balance between gentle tart, red fruits, acidity and the mineral character one almost never experiences in Pinots under $35. The wine is made in traditional 2,400 liter wood casks (called Fudres) and is an easy- on-
the- body 12.5% alcohol. This is a wine which can be paired successfully with many different foods including Salmon which is so tough on wine.
Buy this Pinot by the case and make it your summer red.
I have rarely tasted an under $20 red wine I have liked so much.
Bob Millman
Becker Pinot Noir Estate 2007 $19.50
First come - first served
How to order:
Reply to this email and Mary will respond with account set-up info, if that needs to be done. We ship all over the world...
Please spread the word - we are a humble but well-studied duo -
Slainte,
(Mary Taylor)
ThoreauWineSociety.com
