Wine from the Touraine and other Musings
Dear Friends,
I’m sitting here in my kitchen after taking the most lovely hike along a ridged crest, and through the vineyards of Meursault and St. Aubin. Passing by the tiny hamlet of Blagny, we won the curious glance of workers pruning the vines, burning the canes from last harvest into brush fires – thus putting a toasty stamp on the ancient stone
houses and mythically damp December air. I realize this is the rush season – where everything is whizzing until you get to the placid first week of January. I spent a portion of yesterday reading an article about Gary Snyder, the wonderful elemental poet and great contemplative whose purity of lifestyle has etched itself into the American story. The article reminded me to slow down – enjoy the beauty of one’s sensations, each bite, each sip…
At the moment I’m tasting the last drops of lovely 50-year-old-vines Gamay-de-Touraine known as ‘Le Bois Jacou’ from
Jean-Francois Merieau, whose winery rests along the Cher, near Blois, in the Loire Valley. The Merieau’s count three generations of winemaking, and now the well-studied young Jean-Francois, an artisan who dwells on art, has begun the process of organic certification. I recently asked the winery for samples (the only way I can afford this craft), and received a whopping 12 different bottles, simply because Jean-Francois refuses to blend. The juice from their parcels must be bottled separately, so that they reflect their individual terroir (do I sound like a broken record?). This particular gamay comes from 40-60 year-old vines in low yields (40 hl/ha) which is hand harvested from a single parcel, planted atop limestone and clay. Some juice is vinified traditionally and some is via carbonic maceration – this 2007, (a 5 star vintage) is done beautifully.
Coming from a household where wine takes center-stage, we love a good spicy gamay. If cultivated carefully, there is something quite elemental about this variety. More and more, I am getting into the Beaujolais Cru; Brouilly, Morgon etc. which unfairly suffer the fate of their name (soon to change). Similarly, a good Gamay de Touraine, we find, is delicious – this Merieau being ruby colored punchy red fruit spice, a roasted coffee bean quality, floral, earthy, and pure – no heaviness, very drinkable now - whoops, and my glass is empty. Enjoy with rillettes, chicken Tandoori, pumpkin ginger soup, or by itself.
$17.75 per bottle
Best price in the USA
The wine is being shipped from New York around the US, or can be
picked up in Manhattan – Please reply for ordering information.
Offer ends Thursday and wine will be available this weekend (we will
try to get all orders out on Friday for delivery and shipping).
Please refer your friends – I am a lone ranger in the wilderness.
Happy Holidays,
Mary
